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The main highway between Johannesburg and Cape Town takes travelers through the Great Karoo, a vast desert of reddish-brown earth speckled with scrub vegetation and seemingly populated by nothing more than a loping springbok or two. Few overseas visitors venture off the road. Yet a mile byway leads miragelike to an oasis of sorts, a dusty Afrikaans dorp, or farming village, in a surprisingly fertile patch watered by a stream flowing down the northern slopes of the soaring Swartberg Mountains.
The village, Prince Albert, sometimes has the look of a sleepy frontier settlement out of the old American West, but it is known among travel connoisseurs for pristine examples of 19th-century Cape Dutch architecture, with their signature rounded gables, and for tasty figs and olives, and grazing sheep that are raised for mohair and the most tender lamb. Improbably, in recent decades, a lively colony of artists and crafts makers has sprung up there.
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Nevertheless, tourists are increasingly finding their way there just as the village is increasingly finding ways to entice European, Asian and American travelers who can now visit South Africa without the discomfort of spending money in a land under the chokehold of apartheid. The adventure of driving the dizzying switchbacks of a gravel mountain pass straddled by craggy pinnacles is a reason some travelers will take the long way via Prince Albert toward the fabled, lush Garden Route on the Indian Ocean coast.
We took a similar path, though nervous about driving under the British left-side-of-the-road system along sheer-drop cliffs, we chose a gentler paved mountain pass. My wife, a native who left South Africa 50 years ago but returns every few years to visit family, needs to renew her communion with the landscape whose beauty is lodged inextricably in her soul.
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The spine of Church Street is graced with more than a dozen Cape Dutch buildings, some draped in bougainvillea and adorned with tropical plants — fynbos, protea or cactus flowers. But wherever we paused reminded us what a curious and unlikely spot Prince Albert is.
Kurt Steiner, a gallery owner, told us. We encountered an antique wagon permanently parked in front of the village museum as a reminder of the 18th-century pioneers who crossed the Karoo and the Swartbergs to farm. It was showing more lighthearted fare when we were there. There were works by local artists like J. Meyer, who paints blurry, sepia-toned scenes of men and boys in athletic poses.
We came away with a shapely ceramic vase whose design of pink flecks was created by Mr. It now sits in our living room. Prince Albert is home to 30 painters, sculptors, designers and crafts makers, Mr. Their paintings and sculptures are available down the main road at the Gallery, which also has a busy cafe. When I asked Mr. Known for the clicking sounds of their consonants, they had herded, foraged and hunted along the Swartberg slopes for thousands of years until they were gradually displaced by Bantu expansion some 1, years ago, and then pushed out by musket-wielding white settlers in the midth century.
The settlers derogatorily called them Hottentots Khoi and Bushmen San. Their descendants today number about , and are scattered around southern Africa, principally in arid areas like the Kalahari.
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Rock paintings, which were done with ingredients like eland blood and egg white, depict elephants, eland and other animals as well as processions of hunters and other scenes of daily life. For those who have the time, there are a number of areas across South Africa where a visitor can see actual rock paintings, a prime location being the Cederberg mountain range two hours north of Cape Town. It has more than painting sites, including a two-and-a-half mile rock-art trail and others accessible by hikers. After crossing the Karoo a Khoisan word meaning desert by wagon, the farmers Zacharias and Dina De Beer planted fruit orchards, vineyards and wheat fields.
Other farmers followed and by the village could support a Dutch Reformed minister. A steepled church was built 10 years later, and it still dominates the village. You learn from the museum that a nearby railroad line from Cape Town, the carving of the tortuous pass through the Swartbergs, a short-lived boom in ostrich feathers for Europeans and a gold rush that fizzled all contributed to the growth of the village, which today has 7, inhabitants, roughly 86 percent of mixed-race, 11 percent white and 2 percent black.
Back outside, it is hard not to be struck by the sharp contrast, even in the new South Africa, between the comfortable routines and living quarters of white residents and tourists, and the more pinched lives and flimsy shacks of the mixed-race and black residents who work in the hotels, shops and farms that are owned and managed by whites. On the streets, barefoot children sometimes pose for photographs, hoping for a few rand. Prince Albert is known for its food and on our strolls we indulged.