- The Complete Guide: South Africa's Garden Route | The Independent
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If you do want to come face to face with Jaws, Shark Africa 00 27 44 , www. Top surf spots include Victoria Bay, Buffalo Bay and Plettenberg beach, but serious surfers will want to carry on east to Jeffrey's Bay. Surfers flood to J Bay from around the world to tackle the legendary "supertubes" — you'll need a good-sized board for the fast waves. J Bay's mix of surf shops, fast-food outlets, bars and rampant holiday home development makes it an acquired taste; there are plenty of surf shops all along the Garden Route where you can hire boards and get information on local conditions.
Other wet and wild activities include sea-kayaking Real Cape Adventures, 00 27 82 , www.
The Complete Guide: South Africa's Garden Route | The Independent
If you've a head for heights, how about tandem paragliding in the town of Wilderness to spot whales and dolphins from a seagull's-eye view Cloudbase Paragliding, 00 27 44 , www. Or plunge metres from the world's highest bungee jump at Bloukrans River Bridge Face Adrenaline, 00 27 42 , www. For more traditional outdoor activities, the forests and beaches of the Garden Route are traversed by countless hiking, biking and riding trails. Tsitsikamma National Park boasts one of South Africa's best long-distance hikes, the 42km Otter Trail, offering five days of superb coastal walking with rivers to ford and plenty of time to swim, snorkel or just relax.
You overnight in basic huts and must carry everything you need. It's hugely popular and often booked a year in advance book through South African National Parks 00 27 12 , www. Mountain bike fans, meanwhile, should head for the Harkerville trail, near Knysna — actually four different circular trails of varying degrees of difficulty. Contact Outeniqua Biking Trails 00 27 44 for bike hire and guided trails. Steam afficionados might prefer to recreate authentic rail travel of the Twenties to Forties on a Union Limited Golden Thread vintage steam rail tour UK agent Northumbria Travel, , www.
If you're planning a self-drive holiday, hiring a car is cheap and the roads are excellent. If you're on a tight budget, public transport along the Garden Route is better than anywhere else in the country.
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The Baz Bus 00 27 21 , www. Travelling under your own steam means that you can stop off when and where you fancy.
Golfing enthusiasts, for example, could simply play their way along the Garden Route, since there are as many golf courses as there are holes in a round, including the famous Fancourt Country Club near George 00 27 44 , www. Alternatively, stay at the Garden Route's most stylish offering, The Lodge in Plettenberg Bay, voted one of the world's top hotels last year by Tatler magazine. With Phillippe Starck bathrooms, it's one of the trendiest small hotels in South Africa.
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The Garden Route is a long way from South Africa's crime hotspots and is traditionally one of the safer parts of the country, but the influx of tourists has prompted a rise in crime. The Foreign Office says, "There is a risk of vehicle hi-jacking and armed robbery in some areas. Drivers should park in well lit areas and not pick up strangers. Avoid driving in rural areas at night.
The Garden Route is not prime safari territory, but you can still sample the classic African game lodge experience with the added bonus that you won't catch malaria stalking the Big Five. You can fly in to Prince Charles' favourite, Shamwari reserve 00 27 42 , www. The Garden Route is also one of the best places in the world for shore-based whale and dolphin-watching, particularly between July and October.
The Garden Route's tourist industry was built on its appeal to South African families, so there is plenty to amuse the kids. The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe is Southern Africa's last scheduled steam-hauled passenger train, and follows a spectacular ocean-hugging route through Goukamma, Sedgefield, Victoria Bay and Wilderness. Make up for the disappointment of not seeing the fabled wild Knysna elephants with a visit to Knysna Elephant Park, where a small group of friendly hand-reared elephants are kept in semi-natural conditions and can be handled and fed treats by visitors.
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More close encounters of a furry kind can be had at Monkeyland, 18km east of Plett, where rehabilitated primates roam in huge walk-through natural enclosures. For active children there are plenty of places to hire canoes, bikes or horses. And if they're not afraid of the dark, a trip to Cango Caves, near Oudtshoorn is a must. The standard tour walks you through breathtaking, dramatically lit caverns, but take the "adventure tour" to strike deeper into the hot, airless, inner recesses along ever narrower tunnels, until finally you have to "post" yourself through a frighteningly tight slit.
If you're heading back to Cape Town then "Route 62" offers a great scenic alternative to the N2. Strike inland from Knysna or Plett, crossing the Outeniqua mountains via the dramatic untarred Prince Alfred's Pass, or take the tarred road from George up to Oudtshoorn. Either will bring you to the arid, sun-baked landscape of the Little Karoo, a region of sparsely populated valleys with quiet, old-fashioned towns, surrounded by rugged mountain scenery.
The only large town is Oudtshoorn, dubbed "ostrich capital of the world", and notable for its "feather palaces", showy sandstone buildings built by the self-aggrandising ostrich barons of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. If you don't fancy a visit to one of the touristy ostrich show farms, you'll still see hundreds of these bizarre birds on roadside farms.
Follow the R62 west through Calitzdorp, a Victorian village with wineries producing excellent port, and carry on through sleepy towns far-removed from the tourist bustle of the coast. Leaving the Little Karoo, you pass through the fertile fruit and wine country of the Breede River Valley, then on to the Cape Winelands.
Take a couple of days over the trip to allow time for short detours to visit attractive little towns such as McGregor, an artsy magnet for urban escapees from Cape Town, or Tulbagh, with its perfectly restored Cape Dutch architecture. The South Africa Tourism Board , www. There are umpteen websites offering information, try www. Elephant warning signs on the road between Knysna and Plett aren't entirely a joke, but your chances of seeing wild elephants are almost nil.
Thousands once roamed the forests, but hunting and habitat destruction saw numbers dwindle to a handful. An attempt to introduce fresh breeding stock in the s failed, and today you'll not get a straight answer to how many, if any, survive. Searching for elephants is a good excuse to explore the beautiful forests, with their majestic yellowwoods — try the walking trails in Diepwalle Forest, about 20km from Knysna.
Oudtshoorn, an hour's drive inland from Wilderness, is worth a visit for the nearby Cango caves, but whether you'll want to visit one of Oudtshoorn's ostrich show farms is another matter. If you do you'll see "jockeys" riding the birds in races, or even get to sit on one yourself, but bear in mind that this is cruel and can lead to broken legs for the unfortunate birds.
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The show farms are chiefly memorable for some of the tackiest souvenirs you'll ever see. Back in the 16th century, mariners used to leave messages for passing ships in an old boot under a milkwood tree in Mossel Bay. Outside the maritime museum, part of Mossel Bay's Bartolomeu Dias Museum Complex, you'll find a tree with a plaque optimistically claiming "This may well" be the same tree. The museum itself is worth a visit for the life-size recreation of Dias's tiny ship, a testament to the bravery of these early Portuguese explorers. Eccentric holiday homes built like medieval castles, complete with turrets and battlements, Noetzie's castles enjoy an idyllic location on a lovely surf beach about 10km east of Knysna.
The sea is dangerous for swimming, but there is a sheltered lagoon. For an unusual place to stay, rent one of the castles 00 27 44 , www. Knysna's unassuming little angling museum entry by donation is home to an unusual biological curiosity, a preserved coelacanth. The coelacanth is a "missing link" fish, with fins resembling primitive arms and legs. It was thought to be extinct until a specimen was caught in a deep-sea fishing net off the South African coast in Since then divers have discovered several colonies in the depths of the Indian Ocean.
The Garden Route is famous for its seafood. The farms of the Little Karoo, just over the scenic mountain passes, have put ostrich meat and organic lamb on to many restaurant menus as well providing the perfect excuse to sample some of the local Karoo reds. The Garden Route is also famous for locally brewed beers from Mitchell's Brewery — there's even a brew based on Yorkshire ale called Bosun's Bitter 44 A choice of menus include oysters, smoked chicken, vegetable kebabs, lime and basil couscous, pecan pie plus wine, and even ideas for good picnic sites.
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